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100-Year-Old Mystery Solved: Remains of Lost Climber Discovered on the Slopes of Mt. Everest

Discovery of Irvine's Remains on Everest

Images Courtesy: Jimmy Chin and National Geographic

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In a remarkable twist in the saga of one of mountaineering’s greatest mysteries, a National Geographic expedition has uncovered what is believed to be the remains of Andrew Comyn Irvine, a British climber who vanished nearly a century ago while attempting to summit Mount Everest alongside the legendary George Mallory. The discovery not only rekindles interest in their fateful 1924 ascent but also offers potential insights into one of the most enduring questions in climbing history: Did they reach the summit before their disappearance?

The Historic Discovery

During a September expedition on the Central Rongbuk Glacier, a National Geographic team, including acclaimed filmmaker Jimmy Chin, made the groundbreaking discovery. What they initially thought was a boot emerging from the melting ice turned out to contain a foot still inside. Upon closer examination, they found a red label stitched into the sock reading “A.C. IRVINE.” This moment of revelation was met with exhilaration; Chin recounts how his team celebrated the find, realizing its historical significance as they ran in circles, overwhelmed with emotion.

Photographer and filmmaker Jimmy Chin was leading a National Geographic team below the north face of Mount Everest in September when they discovered a boot and sock embroidered with “A.C. Irvine,” believed to belong to the lost mountaineer Andrew Comyn Irvine.
Image Instagrammed by Jimmy Chin

This discovery comes 100 years after Irvine and Mallory were last seen on June 8, 1924, when they attempted to become the first climbers to conquer Everest. Mallory’s remains were located in 1999, but Irvine’s fate had remained unknown until now. As Chin noted, “It’s the first real evidence of where Sandy ended up.” The hope is that this finding could shed light on the circumstances of their disappearance and provide some closure for Irvine’s family, who have long sought answers about their beloved ancestor.

A Search for Closure

Julie Summers, Irvine’s great-niece and author of a biography on him, expressed gratitude for the discovery, calling it a significant step toward understanding his fate. “It’s an object that belonged to him and has a bit of him in it,” she remarked. Summers suspects that the remains may have been swept down the mountain by avalanches and compressed by shifting glaciers, suggesting a poignant end to the search for her great-uncle.

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The sock, with Irvine’s name, was found along with a boot and a foot, appearing from the ice of the Central Rongbuk Glacier.
Image Instagrammed by Jimmy Chin

In an effort to confirm the identity of the remains, family members have volunteered to provide DNA samples. This collaborative spirit underscores the personal connection to the discovery, making it not just an archaeological find but a deeply emotional moment for those who remember Irvine.

The Quest for Summit

Irvine, who was only 22 years old at the time of his disappearance, was the youngest member of the 1924 expedition. His ascent, alongside the experienced Mallory, was a significant event in the history of climbing. Mallory’s body showed signs of a fatal fall, with rope marks suggesting he was tethered to his partner in their final moments. Yet, the ultimate question of whether they reached the summit remained unresolved.

Andrew “Sandy” Irvine was 22 years old when he vanished with Mallory. The Oxford student was the youngest member of the expedition.
Image Instagrammed by Jimmy Chin

Historians and climbers have long speculated about the duo’s fate, and it was believed that Irvine’s Kodak camera, carried during the climb, could contain crucial evidence. The quest for Irvine’s body took on a life of its own, comparable to other legendary searches, such as that for Amelia Earhart.

The discovery of Irvine’s boot, however, has reignited the mystery and the excitement surrounding their endeavor. As Chin reflected, finding this artifact narrows down the search area for further discoveries. “I think it literally melted out a week before we found it,” he stated, hinting at the possibility of more artifacts nearby, including the elusive camera.

Chin said he suspects the boot had been trapped in the glacier until just prior to the team spotting it. “I think it literally melted out a week before we found it,” he said.
Image Instagrammed by Jimmy Chin

A Legacy Remembered

Summers describes Irvine as a “beautiful young man who died in the flush of youth.” His background as an athlete and his contributions to the expedition are celebrated, yet he has often faced scrutiny for his lack of technical climbing experience. Despite these criticisms, his loyalty to Mallory and his innovative spirit as the expedition’s oxygen officer earned him respect among his peers.

In the last photo taken of the mountaineers, George Mallory (left) and Sandy Irvine prepare to leave the North Col of Everest in June 1924.
Photograph by Noel E. Odell/Royal Geographical Society via Getty Images

The discovery not only pays homage to the climbers’ achievements but also brings their story full circle. As new details continue to emerge, the climbing community holds its breath, eager for answers that may finally lay to rest the questions surrounding that fateful day on Everest. The ongoing search and the discoveries to come might not only solve a century-old mystery but also honor the spirit of adventure that defined the lives of Mallory and Irvine.

In the wake of this groundbreaking find, the legacy of these climbers continues to inspire both respect and fascination, ensuring that their story will resonate for generations to come.