Hidden Treasures and Smugglers’ Secrets: Inside India’s Only Customs & GST Museum in Goa
In the heart of Panjim, Goa, a striking indigo-blue structure stands as a testament to India’s rich history of trade, taxation, and the relentless battle against smuggling. Known as the Museum of Customs & GST, this one-of-a-kind attraction is housed in a 400-year-old heritage building and offers visitors a peek into the cunning world of contraband and the evolution of Indian customs.
Smugglers’ Ingenuity on Display
Walking through the museum feels like stepping into a thriller. Contraband goods concealed in the most unexpected places—a hollowed-out book, the soles of shoes, a bicycle tube, and even sanitary pads—reveal the lengths smugglers have gone to evade detection. The display includes an actual white Premier Padmini car, its carburetor stuffed with hidden goods, and a photograph from 1956 showing eight men caught with 510 tolas of gold concealed in their rectums.
A fiber-crafted British couple, apprehended in 1966 at Mumbai Port, stands in one corner. The man’s walking stick contained diamonds, while the lady’s striped jacket held gold bars. These exhibits encapsulate the perpetual cat-and-mouse game between customs officials and offenders.
Journey Through Taxation History
The museum isn’t just about smugglers—it also chronicles the history of Indian customs and taxation. From Harappan trade seals to the tax laws outlined in Kautilya’s Arthashastra, visitors can explore how ancient trade and taxation systems evolved. Artifacts on display include punch-marked coins from the Mauryan era, gold coins from the reigns of Kanishka II and Chandragupta Maurya, and even a copy of Akbar’s Ain-i-Akbari.
Modern-day customs practices are also well-documented, offering a seamless narrative of how India’s taxation system adapted through the ages, including during British rule, when cotton became the first taxed item under the Central Excise Act.
Rescued Heritage Treasures
The Gallery of Rescued Heritage is a treasure trove of artifacts saved from smuggling attempts. From stone sculptures and ivory artifacts to rare coins, these items would have been lost to illicit trade if not for the vigilance of customs officials. The highlight is a rare Jambhala idol, seized from a bag on a bus traveling from Kathmandu to New Delhi.
A Building Steeped in History
Known as the Blue Building, this heritage structure has undergone transformations since its inception in 1479 as a Portuguese customs checkpoint. Once painted sunflower yellow, its current indigo hue pays homage to the indigo trade during Portuguese rule. The building served as the headquarters of Goa’s Excise & Customs Department until it was repurposed as a museum in 2001.
Practical Information
- Location: Panjim, opposite Panaji Jetty Captain & Port
- Timings: Open Tuesday through Sunday, 9:30 AM to 5 PM; closed on Mondays
- Entry Fee: ₹10 (free for students with ID)
- Parking: Available at the back of the building
The museum’s second floor is currently under renovation but is expected to reopen by summer. For history enthusiasts or anyone intrigued by the art of deception, this museum is a must-visit on your Goa itinerary.
